One thing we absolutely love about jewelry is its ability to perfectly reflect your own story. Ruth Tomlinson takes that idea, combines it with her signature sculptural style, and crafts incredible custom jewelry—with your own repurposed gems or specially sourced ones—for our clients.
This past spring, several clients brought in heirloom pieces for Ruth to reimagine, resetting diamonds and gemstones into intricate, golden jewels crafted with the utmost care. Like unearthed treasures, each piece is its own tiny work of art. Get to know more about Ruth's style and studio with this behind-the-scenes conversation:
Your jewelry aesthetic is so organic and intricate—how would you describe it?
My designs are defined by an ethereal, unexpected quality—each piece is a miniature world waiting to be discovered with delicate details that draw the eye in. I work intuitively with materials, favoring unique gemstones with character and metal finishes that feel timeworn. I seek out unconventional beauty and embrace the imperfect.
What draws you to work with unique, raw, antique, or repurposed stones?
For me, it’s the story and sentiment held within these unique stones. I’m especially drawn to antique diamonds for their hand-cut shapes, soft candlelit sparkle, and unique character that speaks of another time. Raw diamonds hold a different kind of magic—I like to think of them as gifts from nature and believe they are perfect just as the earth created them. It’s their gentle, natural glow that I find so captivating. Working with clients’ heirloom stones is always an honor. Each commission becomes a personal journey shaped by memory and emotion, and we take great pleasure in being part of their continued story.
Can you tell us about your process for creating custom (bespoke) pieces?
Clients usually come to us with the beginnings of an idea, sometimes knowing exactly which elements or gemstones they want to incorporate or what story they want the jewellery to tell. From there, we begin a collaborative journey, bringing together elements from our collections that resonate with them, offering gentle direction and thoughtful recommendations when needed so that the result is rooted in our signature style.
Whether it's a bespoke birthstone necklace or an engagement ring designed especially with someone in mind, every piece is handcrafted at the bench, sculpted in wax, and refined by eye and hand. This means no two commissions are ever the same. Our clients place a great deal of trust in both the process and our craftsmanship, as we don’t work from technical drawings or CAD renderings.
When creating a custom piece repurposing clients’ heirloom stones, how do you approach the process?
Because we work with what already exists, the process is inherently unique—repurposing, renewing, and re-loving what’s already meaningful. Each commission begins with the gemstones you bring to us, and we tailor the design around them. We will guide you through design options that best suit the character of your heirloom stones, considering their size, shape, and setting potential, as well as the styles and details within our collections that resonate most with you. Commissions can vary too – sometimes all the gemstones are family heirlooms, other times it’s a single diamond that carries the story forward. The result is always a completely unique and one-of-a-kind modern treasure, made just for you.
What’s the most surprising or memorable custom project you’ve taken on?
I feel so fortunate that we’ve been trusted to transform so many heirloom jewels over the past twenty years. Some of my favorite recent pieces include the beautiful stacks commissioned during our Lapis trunk show and the striking marquise citrine ring that truly felt like a one-of-a-kind statement. We’ve also worked with memorial diamonds over the years, an honor each time.
Your designs often feel like modern relics—what inspires that look?
Historic jewellery and intricate craftsmanship are constant sources of inspiration for my work. When combined with influences from the natural world, the result is ancient yet unplacable, as if unearthed from a forgotten time…. Almost as if the gemstones and metal are one, like they have grown and fused together over time.
What materials or techniques do you find yourself returning to again and again?
Alternative diamonds that don't conform to the expected standards of the jewelry industry—old cuts, raw stones, flecked with alluring inclusions, or in beautiful shades of neutral. All diamonds are inherently precious, and I love celebrating those that are often overlooked by more commercial brands.
I've been experimenting with casting diamonds in place, rather than setting them, since I started the brand in 2001. Today, the vast majority of diamonds and sapphires in our jewels are cast in place, seemingly suspended amongst precious granules of gold and barnacle-like forms. This has become our signature style.
Who is the Ruth Tomlinson wearer? How do you hope they feel in your jewelry?
Our clients are drawn to jewelry that feels quietly different, an alternative to traditional styles, yet timeless enough to become future classics. They’re independent thinkers with a deep appreciation for art, craftsmanship, and the natural world. They seek pieces that reflect their individuality in a subtle, considered way. Each piece should be unique, like each of us, and this is how I like the jewelry to make people feel.
What’s next for your work—or the brand as a whole?
I’m excited to start working on a new one-of-a-kind collection using raw and semi-faceted sapphires I sourced in Sri Lanka, direct from the mine.
We can't wait to see what Ruth comes up with next—and share it with all of you! Discover Ruth's beautiful jewelry line or reach out to us to inquire about creating your own custom jewels.